The international image of Iran is as a religious and fundamentalist country. In fact, the life of many Iranians, especially in the big cities, may surprise any foreigners. In the northern part of Tehran, where the upper class live, private parties are often held secretly. I was invited to attend one in the exclusive Elahiyeh area, ironically at the eve of the national celebration of the Victory of the Islamic Revolution. The door was covered by soundproof materials so the neighbors would not hear the noise. You may not recognize those women in heavy veils, as once they entered the door, they took off their veils and showed their tight and sexy outfit. Wines were served continuously throughout the party, American music were played endlessly. The men and women danced together, in a way considered very erotic in Islamic standard. While everywhere in the city you see murals with “Down with America” messages, the main topic of the conversation in this party is “How to get visa to America?”

Tehran, Iran, 2009